Tuesday, April 8, 2014

What is Marrakech?

On March 22nd, I had visitors from The States which included my mother, father, sister, brother in law and my niece! We were so excited for their arrival, Claire and I stood out in front of our apartment building for close to an hour just waiting!  After a week of traveling and touring Morocco with my family, we generated a list titled "What is Marrakech" while sitting in the sun on my balcony.  So you might ask... well, What is Marrakech?

Marrakech is...

Donkeys
motorcycles
palm trees
orange trees
bouganuilla
affectionate men
affectionate culture
call to prayer
stray cats
bland food
limited refrigeration
similar to Mexico
litter
beggars
mint tea
souks
ruins
snake charmers
mountains
Arabic language
French influence
hammam
hanging meat
bartering
loving children
paid bathroom visits
contrast
pink toilet paper
tile
ornate doors
dirhams
tajine
hobz
olives
loyalty to merchant

Five adults, a short week traveling through the city, mountains and deserts of Morocco helped develop a general taste and understanding for life in Morocco.

We started our adventures with their arrival in Marrakech... many hours of flights from Oregon and Kansas... these five people arrived!


As soon as luggage was settled in the house, we decided that a walk down the street to Marjorelle Gardens would be a nice start to touring Marrakech.  We walked through the bamboo lines paths, admiring all of the plants and intricate detail in the rocks to create such a relaxing and calming atmosphere.





The Girls

Beto and Sara

Tia and Happy looking out at the fountain
 Promptly after we finished at Marjorelle Gardens, tummies were rumbling and people were ready to sit and relax after a long day.  We stopped at Acima for some wine and beer and headed home to snack and cook dinner so everyone could rest up for the coming adventures.

On Sunday, I decided to show them the Badii Palace Ruins and the Bahir Palace with a stop at Dino's- one of our favorite ice cream parlors.  One thing about Marrakech, is that Claire and I walk everywhere.  We find ourselves in taxis only a fraction of the time-- usually only when another person wants to get a taxi. Claire and I are always happy to trek wherever the day takes us.  So, while my family was here we walked everywhere.
Walking to the Medina

Kotubia Mosque

Horse and Carriages outside Jemma el Fna

Jemma el Fna Snake Charmers

Few of the Snakes

In the Medina





We arrived at the Badii Palace ruins and were able to head up to the terrace to overlook the entire ruin.  It was breath taking.  Marrakech is also known for its storks, so often, at the ruins, you will see the nests filled with storks soaking up the sun.  I haven't spotted any babies yet...


Sara and Via

The Perez Family!

Happy hiking up the stairs



Mommy and Happy on the terrace

Tia, Via, Tio, and Happy

Tio and The Girls

Finding the Shade and Rehydrating
Nana and The Girls
Nana and A Moroccan Door

Papa on the Terrace
I stayed up with the stroller and the bags while the family headed down to the prison.  Don't they seem rather at home in the picture?



After the Badii ruins, we decided it was time for some lunch.  We walked back out of the ruins and decided to eat at Kozybar.  I had heard of Kozybar from colleagues, but hadn't actually been there.  It was an amazing atmosphere in the Medina and was traditional Moroccan decor in a riad- so we got to experience what felt like Morocco!







We headed over to the Bahir Palace- one of my favorite places that I have visited in Marrakech.  It is captures so much beauty that Morocco has to offer, but is also mixed with a bit sadness.  

My Ham

The details in the Bahir Palace and the meaning behind each intricate detail is something that draws me near.  Beauty tied with story and strength.  Can't beat meaningful architecture. 








Chaddy and I have a similar picture in front of the same door from August!  LOVE!

Tio Playing Frogs with the girls

There is just something about fountains

Beauty

Resting in the Bahir Palace


We braved the walk back through the narrow streets of the medina.  The busy bodies, the quick motorcycles, the men in the shops... it is all so wonderfully overwhelming.  One of the additional beauties of living here.



We navigated our way towards home, taking in all the sights and smells along the way.  With a long hot day behind us, we decided to stop and refresh at Dinos with ice cream!  Always a treat!







I kept my family busy as on Monday to Tuesday, we headed to the Zagora Desert on a very windy road but with lots of change in landscape and beauty to be captured everywhere.  We were picked up outside the apartment at 7am in the morning and began our 7 hour drive.  We stopped a lot along the way to take pictures and appreciate the drive.  Fortunately, the two girls did AMAZING!

Heading into the mountains


Nana and Happy 


Men were selling 'treasures' along the entire journey


We stopped for breakfast at a little cafe in the mountains for tea and coffee.  It was a beautiful view up on the terrace.



Villages were scattered throughout the mountains










Washing in the river


Beginning the windy journey








One of our first stops for touring was the Ait Benhaddou, a UNSECO World Heritage Site.  Known for films such as Gladiator, The Mummy, and Babel.  The mud city was beautiful with its Kasbah sitting a top the mountain.







After Ait Benhaddou, we stopped for lunch at a cafe.  The cafe itself is not too noteworthy, but the camel drinking a Coca Cola is!

After many stops along the way, we finally arrived at our camel destination.  Part of the Zagora desert trip is to head into the campsite on camels.  Via was thrilled, Claire... indifferent until we actually arrived at the camels.  Claire was not an initial fan, but within minutes, she was happy as a clam.  





We rode for what felt like an hour in the pitch black, with a beautiful dome of stars above us.  Hassan, our camel leader, impressively lead us towards camp.  We arrived and were given The Menthe and we waiting to be served dinner.  By dinner time, Happy was exhausted and grumpy, so I took her to bed.  We both fell fast asleep to the sounds of the men playing drums.  Via was a party animal and stayed up and played!



The next morning, they woke us so we could watch sunrise.  It was breathtaking.  I could watch the sunrise and the sunset over the desert every single day.

Our camp

Camel Pack


Beto

Papa

Mom and I



Tent where dinner was served
After sunrise, they serves us tea, coffee and bread before we hopped back on our camels to head back to the van.  This time, it didn't take Happy long to get on the camel at all!  She was excited!  Dad, however, fell off his!
Breakfast



Happy fast asleep

Awake and ready for day two!





We drove back towards Marrakech through a beautiful Oasis.  The Oasis was surprising to see in the midst of all the dry land.





We were all exhausted from the adventure and ready to near home.  We stopped for lunch at a wonderful cafe that you would have no idea existed.  From the outside, it didn't seem worthy of stopping.  However, it was the best tagine I have had in Morocco yet!  When you walked in, the interior was beautiful and the exterior was complete with a pool and a beautiful patio.




After lunch, we headed to a film museum that houses film backgrounds.  We all decided to pass on entering but it was beautiful to see!  The surrounding city was beautiful and mimicked the mud city Ait Benhaddou.








We arrived home around 5pm on Tuesday and made a quick run to the butcher and for beer and wine again.  We all crashed early that night!

On Wednesday, following the Zagora, a traditional Hammam was in order.  We all bartered for a carriage to the Kasbah entrance to the Marrakech Medina.  We wanted to get a hammam at Les Bains de Marrakech.  We entered the medina and headed straight to the spa and scheduled hammams.  Mom opted out, but Sara and I missed her a lot!  Since we had a bit of time to waste, we had a wuick snack at a cafe and walked around the medina for a while.  In our exploring, I spotted a new expat cafe called Cafe Clock, so we all decided to meet there after Sara and I had our hammam.  The Hammam was wonderful.  Sara and I arrived on half hour early.  They took us to a changing room to change into robes then walked us out to a pool with loungers.  We lounged in the chairs and sipped mint tea.  After about 20 minutes, they came to get us and took us to the steam room.  The steam room was tomb-like, as if you were a king or queen.  We layed on beds and talked for 45 minutes.  A lady kept coming in and out of the steam room and was putting soap on our bodies, having us rinse, and then leaving.  The final rinse, I got a bucket to the face- which Sara thought was rather amusing. Then, two ladies came in with kessa gloves and scrubbed our bodies rather firmly.  Let's just say, we were reptilian- shedding skin.  After we finished, they took us to another indoor lounge area with more tea, cookies and water.  We talked, relaxed, and then finally were wondering how long they were going to leave us here.  We decided to take the initiative and go get dressed and ready to trade spots with Beto and Dad. The Hammam was an experience I didn't know if I would like, but I am glad that we decided to try it.  We only live once right??





Les Bains de Marrakech

Happy with her cotton candy
That evening, we headed home and dad made a variety of meat for dinner.  We all sat outside on the balcony, enjoyed the sun and ate dinner!

On Thursday, it was very rainy! We returned to the Medina to go to the souks.  We walked through Bab Marrakech, the back of the souks- the less touristy entrance.  We bargained for shoes, Aladdin Pants, Poufs, little girl outfits!!  You name it!  We had a wonderful time although we all admit that bargaining at times is exhausting especially when you just have to walk away in order to get a reasonable price at times.  After the souks, we ended up eating at Cafe France in Jemma el Fna and heading home. That night, we ended up with a quiet dinner at home again.  Always nice to just hang around and have spaghetti with family!



Sara trying on an outfit

Nana and Scarves

Via and Claire in their Moroccan outfits

Happy and Nana Snoozing

Friday was another day very rainy day!  We headed to Cafe 16 in the Plaza and had a quick lunch and chatted then to Zara so Beto and Sara could take advantage of the Moroccan prices.  We stopped at a few stores on the way home, but called it a day after coming home rather wet!  That night, we waiting for the rain to lift and headed back to Jemma el Fna for the night market.  Seeing the market come alive at night is an experience on does not want to forget!

Heading to the night market

Snails!






Lexie, Nana, and Sara far below!



We were cold and ready to come home just after a short visit to the night market.  That night, mom had made me a cake for my upcoming big 3-0.  Claire was super excited to sing me happy birthday as it is one of her favorite songs.  We ate cake and were merry!



Our last day together, Saturday, we decided to have a relaxing day and head to the Ensemble Artisnal that sells similar items to the souks but with set prices.  No bartering.  It was nice to go and see how much things SHOULD be in the souks.  I ended up purchasing Claire some flats.  She loves them.  We then went grocery shopping for plane snacks and restock used items at the apartment.  The girls each toted their carts.  It was too fun!


grocery shopping! FUN!


After grocery shopping, we invited a few of my friends, Danielle and The Gaunts to the rooftop for a BBQ.  It was a warm afternoon that allowed Claire and Via to splash and play in the pool a bit and run around.  Dad bbq'd some lemon chicken and we had a side of sauteed veggies and garlic bread.  Yum!  It definitely made me anxious to get home so Mr. F can bbq me some tasty dinners- including his famous burgers!















The night ended with a beautiful sky and sunset- Marrakech bidding its farewells and thank yous to my family!




It was a great first week of spring holiday.  We are closing our year here in Morocco with a bang.  Yet ready to wrap our arms around Chaddy and Mr. F.  We love and miss you all at home.

xo

Lex

2 comments:

  1. What a great job capturing our trip! We had a fantastic time. We miss you too.
    XOXO Mom

    ReplyDelete
  2. Brings it all back! Thanks for writing it all down to help preserve the memories! Can we come over again soon?!

    ReplyDelete